Renner Springs, Daly Waters, Mataranka

Zoomed past Threeways, back onto untravelled roads.  Stopped at a place called Renner Springs for lunch with some beautiful peacocks in the middle of nowhere (or, as a sign somewhere corrected - the middle of everywhere).  

Rich surrendered his too cool status and bought a family pack of personal fly nets - in camo colours - how far we have fallen.  Along this road we rediscovered a love for trees as the vegetation changed back to open woodland.  The small hills also brought us more delight than we could ever have expected!  Passed a smashed car and overturned caravan :( and pulled up at Daly Waters.  This is one of those iconic old outback pubs, (since 1938) decorated with random car parts, number plates, thong trees, hats and various items of clothing (underwear was tricky to explain!).  It has an interesting history with links to droving, Qantas and the WW2 airforce.  Spent the arvo in the pub (a novel classroom!) while enjoying beers and lemonade.  Later enjoyed the well over-priced ‘beef and barra’ bbq, a pub treasure hunt, and some ‘old-fashioned’ country songs and jokes from the resident musician.

Next morning the kids had a quick play as Kel and Rich had a chat to our camp neighbours (who revealed they were moving themselves, their kids, their sick dog and everything else in their caravan from Cairns to either Darwin or Kununurra for good).  We got on the road headed for Mataranka – site of the famous Bitter Springs. Several friends and other travellers had mentioned Bitter Springs, so we were pretty keen to find out what all the fuss was about.

This was a quick hop (about 160km - these things are all relative!) so we were able to set up early and hit the springs for the arvo.  Got a good tip on the way out - take your goggles and borrow a floaty noodle. Well, the springs did not disappoint!  The palm-fringed spring was crystal clear with water temperature at 32 degrees.  It flowed with a slow current from one end of the swimming hole to 50 metres downstream.  In the depths there were turtles and spiders formed arches made of webs above our heads.  We spent hours floating and splashing about, out-bathing all comers!  Our only complaint was that 32 degree water is not the refreshing dip you crave when it is 36 degrees outside!

Next morning we were up early to take advantage of our location next to the springs.  We packed our breakfast and walked down to be greeted by steam rising from the water.  Before long, we were joined by plenty of others.  The kids made friends with a family of Aboriginal kids, which was pretty novel for them and a great lesson in colour-blindness.  Under the tutorage of their new friends, the kids got a bit more adventurous, leaping off a stump.  We were so moved by the springs we had a religious experience...

Spent the day in and out of the springs, mixed in with some visits to the caravan park's canine residents (the kids are missing Marley).  Returned to the springs again next morning before hitting the road again en route to Berry Springs, 50km outside of Darwin.  The vegetation became greener, the air thicker until finally we arrived at the lush tropical oasis that was our next caravan park!