Thursday 7 November 2013

Heading South Along the Vasse Highway to Pemberton, Denmark and Albany

We said our goodbyes to beautiful (but dangerous) Yallingup and began the drive down the tree-lined Vasse Highway to Albany.  Our conspiracy theory radars were running hot when we passed several signs tucked in bushland and at the entrance to dirt tracks, stating in bold black and white "Disease risk area".  What kind of disease, we wondered, trying to figure whether we were anywhere near Woomera.  Disease for who, we pondered.  Surely plant pathogens or ticks for livestock.  Why not just state that?  Our suspicions were heightened when we encountered small green signs announcing "National Park" but failing to provide the park with any kind of name.  Alas the mystery remains unsolved. 

We stopped at a quaint little one-time forestry town called Nannup for some lunch.  This was another town with carefully tended flower beds lining the main street, several cafes and an average population age of 80.  Not sure what becomes of a town like this in twenty years or so, gives it all a melancholy air.  We continued on through the rolling hills and tall Karri forests until we came to Pemberton, another old timber town, this one slightly more lively though. We checked out the 75m high Bicentennial Tree.  There are several very talls trees that have been used over the years as lookouts for fire spotting.  A couple of them are open to the public to climb if they dare – but Rich’s vertigo got the better of him and he whimped out on climbing up the reinforcing steel peg ‘ladder’, conquering only 10 metres.  Kel was (conveniently?) wearing thongs so naturally was unable to prove her superior skills at climbing heights.  We did, however, stay to cheer on some Italians with more courage than us.  We then headed back into town and checked out the Gloucester Tree – this one was only about 60m high – but had the same kind of ‘ladder’ without the comfort of a half-way rest platform and was just too freakish for Rich to take on.



The next day we continued on our beautiful drive through the farmlands and forests. On the way to Denmark, we stopped off at the Tree Top Walk in the Valley of the Giants National Park. We all enjoyed walking up the steel ramp to the 60m high steel bridge that threaded its way through the 70m high Tingle Tree forest. We then visited the adjoining Ancient Tree Walk where we enjoyed seeing ‘Grandma Tree’ and the kids hid from us in the hollows.




We hit Denmark in the late afternoon, and got lucky with one of the nicest caravan parks ever.  But ugggghhh, the wind!!!!  It is so incessant it makes it hard to think straight and robs you of energy (oh - that might be the kids).  After setting up, Rich had a sleep on the grass in the sunshine on the non-wind side, Kel read her Kindle, and the kids played on the jumping pillow and on their bikes. That night around 50 or so kangaroos descended on the caravan park, and it was a bit tricky heading to the bathroom.
Next morning, Rich went for an early morning walk to the lagoon and beach, and then we packed up the van and headed off to Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks.  Having seen some fairly impressive coastline already, we were pleasantly surprised to find that Greens Pool was a wonderfully scenic place.  Out of the infernal wind, we decided to hang out here with the locals, swatting a few thousand flies (who also like to escape the wind), while the kids paddled around in the blue water for a couple of hours.




We wandered over the rocks to Elephant Rock – but it was a bit windier and cooler here – so Kel took a few photos while we watched Dylan playing with (throwing rocks at) crabs hiding beneath the big rocks we were sitting on.




We then back-tracked to a toffee factory, enticed by the sign "the biggest cone in Denmark", he he, let's see what this place is all about.  Tested out some samples under the watchful gaze of perhaps the scariest customer service person out there, who looked like she was on day release from Pentridge and answered all questions in the tone of "do you wanna fight?".  Rich quite literally ran away, discovering a sudden keen interest in finding Wilbur the resident pig, leaving Kel to face down the stare and finish up the purchase of the toffee (which was pretty good).  

At Albany, we checked into the caravan park and realised that the reason it was so busy was because the Albany show had just been on - damn, missed it!  It was still pretty windy, and we set up while a few sites down some other campers spent an hour or so ripping their somewhat wind destroyed awning off their van.

Next morning we were up pretty early and headed up to the Castle Rock Granite Walk in the Porongurup National Park. It took a fair bit of negotiation first with Dylan, and then Ari to get them walking (but we've got some good video footage of them for showing at their 18th birthdays!). We walked up the 3km to the top of the hill, and then had to climb up some 'stapled' rocks and then up a 10m high vertical ladder to reach the steel walkway bolted into the rock at the summit. The view was awesome and the kids ended up having a really great time. They were also pretty proud of themselves for getting all the way to the top.








We headed into town in search of a late lunch and found ourselves at Dylan's Cafe where we had a nice - but rushed meal (4 o'clock closing time) in a beautiful old building overlooking the bay.  Had our first encounter with police for the day, Rich earning himself a tut-tutting for speeding through an unmanned construction site.


We then headed over to an old Brig that is parked at the entrance to Albany where the kids played Captain and Coxwain.  On the way home, we enjoyed spotting unusual wildlife road signs - WA is definitely the winner for those - making sure we kept to 40km through the "turtle crossing zone" and kept our eyes open for waterbirds and malleefowl desirous of reaching the other side. 



Back at the caravan park, Kel had a great idea to go for a spa (this is one special caravan park let me tell you). The spa was awesome, heated and indoors. Feeling very happy with ourselves, we put the icing on the cake and headed off to the family bathroom for a family bath (no photos here I'm afraid folks).

After putting the kids to bed and feeling rather chilled after our bushwalk, cafe meal, spa and bath, we heard a late night knock at our door. We opened the door to find a lady there in obvious distress asking for our help. After some questions to understand the legitimacy of her distress we invited her into the caravan.  We then had our second encounter with police for the day, after they were called in by security (who we called) to deal with the situation.  Such a commotion probably raised the eyebrows of the people around us, with all the cars and men in uniform outside our van at midnight.  Our neighbour also found himself having to make explanations as he walked down the road in the dark carrying an enormous TV (!?!).  The last we saw of the lady was when she got into the police car and it drove away.

The next day we packed up and made a quick excursion into Torndirrup National Park.  Again we were diverted by the signage, these ones warning of treacherous coastline accompanied by graphics of stick figures falling in all sorts of hilarious postures.  Skipped on the Whaling Station tour, Kel exiting stage left when the lovely guy at the counter enquired whether we had brought our lunch with us, 'cause the tour takes two hours and people stay all day.  Visited the key attractions (more rocks, this time grey instead of red) of the Gap and the Rock Arch.  Apparently this section of the coast fits a corresponding section of the Antarctic coast like a gigantic puzzle piece.  Karate chops failing us, we had to run back to the car and try to get in before the swarm of flies, hitting the road once more - this time heading for Esperance.



2 comments:

  1. just had a huge read - your kids are getting blonder and taller each post... I suggest you keep them out of the sun and stop feeding them!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They sure are! Dylan is pretty much up to my shoulder now...doesn't leave much growing for his teenage years. Sun has been a bit scarce in SA - bring back the desert!

      Delete