Next morning we left Kununurra, after discovering rather late that our caravan park had an immaculate pool. We didn’t see much of the town, but what we did see seemed rough and pretty desperate. All of the caravan parks seem to have large populations of residents too. And the heat!!!! Kununurra has the dubious distinction of topping the temperature recordings in most of the weather bulletins we see.
Drained by the heat and pushing now for the coast, our plan was to hit the Bungle Bungles commando mission style, in and out in 24 hours. Kel was unsuccessful in her subtle attempts to convince Rich that we might see more from the air in a helicopter. Our friends who had damaged their tyres already decided this was a better option.
We had read on several recent posts on ‘tripadvisor’ that the lady manager of the van park near to the Bungle Bungles was a dragon and Rich was keen to suss her out. We had also heard that the road out to the Bungle Bungles was horrible – so he was also keen to see if the rumours were true on this one.
Upon arriving at the caravan park, we were dismayed to find out that the caravan park was closed and that new park managers were required – enquire within! We ignored the sign, continuing into the park and asked a woman there (“Mummy is that a man or a lady?”) whether we could leave the van for the night – which she said was fine as long as we paid $20. We dumped the van, looking around a little worried at the mostly empty van park that looked more like a construction site, with containers, stockpiles of material and heavy machinery scattered around the place, and began our drive into the Purnululu National Park.
The 50km drive into the park resembled a roller coaster but with corrugations from hell – think Bush Beastie at Australia’s Wonderland – sports bra recommended.
We drove and drove – but no Bungle Bungles. Every time we crested a new hill we both hoped the next one was the Bungle Bungles and simultaneously feared it – we drove all this way just for that? Then finally, after 2 hrs of shake rattle and roll we reached the visitors centre and could see the Bungles for the first time in the distance.
We spent a bit of time at the visitors centre trying to self register for camping. We cleverly turned up to a park in the middle of nowhere with no cash. We tipped our wallets upside down, asking the kids to do the same, and searching every nook and cranny in the car for spare change. Ended up partially paying and heading off to the camp ground right as the sun was setting.
Upon arrival at the campground, we worked like a well oiled team and had the tent set up and sausages cooking within 20 mins. The campground was almost empty with only two or three other campers so we ate dinner, put the kids to bed and Rich relaxed while Kel did some homework. One of Rich’s midnight toilet adventures had one of the other camping parties wishing they had not camped so close to the long drop toilet with the squeaky and bangy door.
We drove and drove – but no Bungle Bungles. Every time we crested a new hill we both hoped the next one was the Bungle Bungles and simultaneously feared it – we drove all this way just for that? Then finally, after 2 hrs of shake rattle and roll we reached the visitors centre and could see the Bungles for the first time in the distance.
We spent a bit of time at the visitors centre trying to self register for camping. We cleverly turned up to a park in the middle of nowhere with no cash. We tipped our wallets upside down, asking the kids to do the same, and searching every nook and cranny in the car for spare change. Ended up partially paying and heading off to the camp ground right as the sun was setting.
Upon arrival at the campground, we worked like a well oiled team and had the tent set up and sausages cooking within 20 mins. The campground was almost empty with only two or three other campers so we ate dinner, put the kids to bed and Rich relaxed while Kel did some homework. One of Rich’s midnight toilet adventures had one of the other camping parties wishing they had not camped so close to the long drop toilet with the squeaky and bangy door.
Next morning we rushed the kids out of bed at 5:30am and had a quick breakfast before heading down the road to the southern side of the park to the Cathedral Gorge. The kids were pumped and couldn't wait...
The whole area was very cool and the Bungles looked like enormous stripy beehives.
Already at 7:30am it was starting to warm up though, so we got into the Cathedral Gorge as fast as possible – walking through the towering Bungles either side.
The whole area was very cool and the Bungles looked like enormous stripy beehives.
Already at 7:30am it was starting to warm up though, so we got into the Cathedral Gorge as fast as possible – walking through the towering Bungles either side.
The end of the gorge opens right up into a large open cave with a pool – so we spent a bit of time here soaking up the ambience and taking a few photos.
We walked back to the car via a circular walk through the Bungle domes, and then drove to the northern part of the park for a walk into the Echidna Chasm. It was now 40 degrees, so we were thrilled when we found the Echidna Chasm to be a very narrow, and therefore shaded gorge.
We all enjoyed this adventure and then returned to the campsite to pack up around midday – Kel and Rich suffering in the 42 degree heat – but the promise of an icy cool Coke from the car fridge keeping them motivated.
We spent an hour and a half driving out of the park – stopping at the visitors centre to pay the rest of the camping fees and pick up some souvenirs and an ice cream. Picked up the van and continued south to Halls Creek to pull up in another dodgy caravan park with barbed wire around the fences. The old lady running the place warned us to not leave valuables lying around outside and after enquiring whether we would be sleeping in our van (?) recommended that we lock our door – hmmmm. She did run a caravan park shop that sold everything from groceries to Barbie Dolls to shoe glue, furniture, toy guns and hardware. Rich reckons they must have had a million dollars of stock in that funny little place. We took the manager's advice and locked the door of the van prior to going to bed.
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