Mission: Bungle Bungles

Next morning we left Kununurra, after discovering rather late that our caravan park had an immaculate pool.  We didn’t see much of the town, but what we did see seemed rough and pretty desperate.  All of the caravan parks seem to have large populations of residents too.  And the heat!!!!  Kununurra has the dubious distinction of topping the temperature recordings in most of the weather bulletins we see. 

Drained by the heat and pushing now for the coast, our plan was to hit the Bungle Bungles commando mission style, in and out in 24 hours.  Kel was unsuccessful in her subtle attempts to convince Rich that we might see more from the air in a helicopter.  Our friends who had damaged their tyres already decided this was a better option.

We had read on several recent posts on ‘tripadvisor’ that the lady manager of the van park near to the Bungle Bungles was a dragon and Rich was keen to suss her out. We had also heard that the road out to the Bungle Bungles was horrible – so he was also keen to see if the rumours were true on this one.    

Upon arriving at the caravan park, we were dismayed to find out that the caravan park was closed and that new park managers were required – enquire within!  We ignored the sign, continuing into the park and asked a woman there (“Mummy is that a man or a lady?”) whether we could leave the van for the night – which she said was fine as long as we paid $20. We dumped the van, looking around a little worried at the mostly empty van park that looked more like a construction site, with containers, stockpiles of material and heavy machinery scattered around the place, and began our drive into the Purnululu National Park.

The 50km drive into the park resembled a roller coaster but with corrugations from hell – think Bush Beastie at Australia’s Wonderland – sports bra recommended.

We drove and drove – but no Bungle Bungles.  Every time we crested a new hill we both hoped the next one was the Bungle Bungles and simultaneously feared it – we drove all this way just for that?  Then finally, after 2 hrs of shake rattle and roll we reached the visitors centre and could see the Bungles for the first time in the distance.

We spent a bit of time at the visitors centre trying to self register for camping.  We cleverly turned up to a park in the middle of nowhere with no cash.  We tipped our wallets upside down, asking the kids to do the same, and searching every nook and cranny in the car for spare change. Ended up partially paying and heading off to the camp ground right as the sun was setting.

Upon arrival at the campground, we worked like a well oiled team and had the tent set up and sausages cooking within 20 mins. The campground was almost empty with only two or three other campers so we ate dinner, put the kids to bed and Rich relaxed while Kel did some homework. One of Rich’s midnight toilet adventures had one of the other camping parties wishing they had not camped so close to the long drop toilet with the squeaky and bangy door.

Next morning we rushed the kids out of bed at 5:30am and had a quick breakfast before heading down the road to the southern side of the park to the Cathedral Gorge. The kids were pumped and couldn't wait...

The whole area was very cool and the Bungles looked like enormous stripy beehives.

Already at 7:30am it was starting to warm up though, so we got into the Cathedral Gorge as fast as possible – walking through the towering Bungles either side.

The end of the gorge opens right up into a large open cave with a pool – so we spent a bit of time here soaking up the ambience and taking a few photos.

We walked back to the car via a circular walk through the Bungle domes, and then drove to the northern part of the park for a walk into the Echidna Chasm. It was now 40 degrees, so we were thrilled when we found the Echidna Chasm to be a very narrow, and therefore shaded gorge.

Several times on this walk we thought we had reached the end of the gorge, only to have Dylan explore the end and find an extension to the track that led us deeper and deeper into ever narrowing sections.


 

We all enjoyed this adventure and then returned to the campsite to pack up around midday – Kel and Rich suffering in the 42 degree heat – but the promise of an icy cool Coke from the car fridge keeping them motivated.

We spent an hour and a half driving out of the park – stopping at the visitors centre to pay the rest of the camping fees and pick up some souvenirs and an ice cream.  Picked up the van and continued south to Halls Creek to pull up in another dodgy caravan park with barbed wire around the fences.  The old lady running the place warned us to not leave valuables lying around outside and after enquiring whether we would be sleeping in our van (?) recommended that we lock our door – hmmmm.  She did run a caravan park shop that sold everything from groceries to Barbie Dolls to shoe glue, furniture, toy guns and hardware. Rich reckons they must have had a million dollars of stock in that funny little place. We took the manager's advice and locked the door of the van prior to going to bed.

WA - a great place - Lake Argyle, El Questro and Kununurra

Preparing to cross the border into WA today and through the quarantine inspection.  Dylan was unaccountably concerned about this process and spent much of his morning asking questions about what, when, how long and coming up with combat manoeuvres to be unleashed on quarantine staff who overstepped their mandate.  Stopped on the NT side of the border for a photo and to eat stuff!  There we were chomping on carrots and other random vegetables and fruit.  Obviously we are not the first to do this, there were loads of fruit stickers decorating the place.

Quarantine inspection all went well, though Kel was sorry to see the sweet potato taken into custody (the website says they are ok!).  It could have gone to a good home – Kel delivered a bag of assorted vegies and other contraband to some locals at Timber Creek as we left.  The quarantine guy wasn't very talkative, but who can blame him in this heat.  We did confirm that sadly Cane Toads waltzed their way across several months ago. 

Safely through the border and feeling a little guilty – all parents out there will know that there are always sultanas stowed in car seats, floor mats etc.  Continued on to Argyle Lake, which was an awesome drive through a rugged landscape and to a caravan park renowned for its infinity pool overlooking the lake. It didn’t disappoint and we enjoyed simultaneously swimming and taking in the view. We agreed that when we’re rich and/or famous and have a mansion with a view – then it’s an infinity pool for us.  We canvassed the idea of an infinity pool overlooking our rock lined stormwater drain and decided to pass on that.

Rich did a quick 75km round trip into Kununurra for a new tyre to replace the one punctured in Katherine, and on the way back visited a ‘secret’ 4wd lookout just in time for sunset.

Next day we put all the camping gear in the car and headed off relatively early to drop the van in Kununurra before heading out to El Questro for the beginning of our trimmed down Gibb River Road adventure. The drive was very scenic with the mighty ranges following the road all the way to the El Questro turnoff.

Once at El Questro we realised the place was a bit pricey and the "wilderness park" perhaps a money making scheme (does El Questro really mean ‘The Expensive Place’?).  We were just booking in when we bumped into some friends, the Bremmers,  that we had previously met in Alice Springs.  They were staying up the road at a cheaper place with a pool - ripped off!  We ended up setting up the tent and spending the rest of the arvo with them (they were kind of stranded – having just popped two tyres at the same time). Kel found a sad substitute for a pool...

and then we had a meal at the steakhouse, after which we headed back to camp to listen to the French tourists a few spots away get wasted.

Next morning, we woke up early.  The French tourists were lying baking like croissants in their sleeping bags where ever they had fallen down – and were probably regretting their decision to camp near a couple of hyperactive, early rising kids. We packed up the tent and then headed up a 4WD track to a good lookout of the Pentecost River threading its way through the local gorges.

We then drove to the beautiful Zebedee Springs for a long dip in its warms springs, spending a couple of hours here.  It was gorgeous, straight out of a Norsca ad we reckon.  The kids turned tadpole hunters and spent the majority of their time underwater. 

 

We then headed on to Home Valley Station some 40 kms up the road for lunch - crossing the not-so-mighty Pentecost River.  Rich's 4wd fantasies came crashing down :(.

What he hoped for...

What he got...

We arrived just in time to watch the kick off to the AFL grand final and bumped into the Bremmers again, so decided to stick around. The kids played with Kai and Morgan, Kel chatted to Bec in the pool, and Rich and John watched the footy downing a few beers and packets of chips along the way.

After a full day, we said our goodbyes and headed back along the Gibb River Road back to Kununurra where the van was stashed – the result was good – it was still there, and the kids were completely exhausted and ready for bed.

A couple of days at Nitmuluk

Left Mary River Roadhouse pretty early, well early for our standards anyway.  Brushed off Katherine and set straight out for Nitmuluk National Park (Katherine Gorge).  Katherine would take her revenge on us later!  Arrived quite early so we set up and went back into town to re-stock and get some lunch.  Turned out to be a pretty lively place with many locals picknicking around the shopping centre.  Visited a ‘Target Country’ to replace kid swimmers that had holes in unseemly places and did the Woolies run.  The kids discovered a new promo involving animal cards, so were chuffed to start up a collection.  Finished off the day back at the campsite, testing out the new swimmers in the pool.  Right on bedtime had a surprise visit from a wallaby, clearly used to being fed and open to being patted for a price.

Having learnt our lesson in the centre and top end, we set off early the next morning to actually see what the gorge was all about.  Had a few false starts, but thought that 8am on the track was a decent effort.  Our plan was to trek into Butterfly Gorge, which we thought the kids might enjoy, plus you could swim there.  Consulted the signs at the start which warned us that the walk would take 4 and a half hours to complete.  But it was only 6kms in – what kind of grandma pace takes over four hours to walk 12kms we thought.  So off we go, with the blessing of a bit of cloud cover and our water bottles full.  Once we had ascended the plateau the walking was pretty flat, although very rocky.  The kids were onto us pretty early in the caper and started the complaining early.  Rich kept Ariel motivated by creating two sequels to the story of the Pied Piper, with some M rated violence for added interest.

Once we reached the gorge proper it was all smiles.  It was indeed full of butterflies, flitting around a peaceful and beautiful glade.  We also happened upon a delicate little tree snake during the walk.

The swimming hole, which was actually continuous with the waterway that runs the length of Katherine Gorge, was deep and cool and quite private.  We tested this theory by getting changed on the bank, with almost disastrous results when a couple of rangers popped around the corner followed by some kayakers.  There was some hesitation getting in – it was murky!  We still have yet to come to completely trust the signs which advise that we are swimming in croc managed waterways.  Ariel was first in, followed by Rich, encouraged by a gentle shove.  He then took it to the next level by swimming to the other side, climbing 10m up the rock face and leaping in.

 With snack supplies running low we eventually decided to leave and head back.  This is where the punishment began!!   The benign slope into the gorge felt like steep incline on the way back.  Sadly the cloud cover had burnt off, or moved on and now there was nowhere to hide from the sun on the plateau.  Thankfully, there were a couple of water tanks along the way – not sure how it would have all ended if they were not there!  To keep them moving along, we bribed the kids with a can of lemonade – one each!  We dragged ourselves back to camp and got to the pool as soon as we could.  Indeed it took 4 and a half hours, and whoops, it was 41 degrees.  Were completely spent for the rest of the arvo.  The kids revived and found the energy to play with some newly made friends who live at Turramurra.

Next morning got a relatively early start again.  Went for another morning swim in the gorge at a pontoon near the campsite before setting off.  Was a lovely way to start the day.

Drove back into Katherine and made a stop to have a look at the School of the Air.  Rich lost Kel and sat in reception (much to the confusion of the receptionist who kept asking “Can I help you?”) while Kel and the kids walked aimlessly around the grounds of the school with people looking at them and wondering what they were doing. We finally established that contrary to the guide book they no longer do tours.  Continued into town and pulled up in a neat little parking spot outside the camping store.  Rich ducked in to get some supplies while Kel and the kids waited.  On return he noticed that our front right tyre was tragically flat.  RIch did his best impersonation of a Solo man (albeit with the car's instruction manual on hand) and changed the tyre - 45 mins, 40 degree heat - the culprit was a nail.  Cheers for that Katherine.  Better here than on a highway or a remote track we supposed!  Katherine clearly had a beef with us because we left town in the wrong direction and had to go back there all over again!!! Third time lucky??

That changed our plans for the rest of the day.  Drove as far as we could, passing on Victoria River...

and opting instead for the tiny settlement called Timber Creek.  Again a dodgy looking shopfront turned out to be a gem.  We stayed at the caravan park behind the servo and found a lovely tree lined park out the back, with a pool, lots of resident animals and awesome mobile reception (?!?).  The kids ran over to watch crocodile feeding and visited the massive colony of fruit bats, followed up with a swim and play in the park (well, not much of a park but they are not very fussy these days!).

 

You know you have reached the Kimberley when you see Boabs!

A nice end to a relatively dramatic day.